Permaculture Principles Tool & Technique (PPTT) Analysis application development using LLM.

Draft 2

Problem Statement

Permaculture designers and permaculturalists lack a standardised, visual, and comparative tool to systematically assess their application of the 12 permaculture principles, resulting in incomplete designs, missed learning opportunities, and inability to track progress over time.

Point of View Statement

Permaculture designers and permaculturalists need a way to quickly visualise and compare their principle implementation because current assessment methods are informal, non-standardised, and don't provide historical tracking or community benchmarking.

How Might We Questions

• How might we make principle assessment as intuitive as arranging physical cards?
• How might we motivate consistent use through meaningful progress visualisation?
• How might we connect individual learning to community-wide understanding?
• How might we bridge offline reflection with online collaboration?

Success Criteria

• Historical progress is immediately visible through comparative visualisation
• Engagement increases through gamification without compromising assessment accuracy
• Tool serves both individual reflection and community aggregation needs
• Assessment process supports contemplative, unhurried reflection on each principle

Ideate – Draft 3

Building on our defined problem and "How Might We" questions, exploring creative solutions for the PPTT Analysis tool:

Core Interface Ideas

1. Card-Based Interface Solutions

• Horizontal deck of 12 principle cards with vertical drag scoring (0-10 scale) in columns
• Visual feedback: cards have a centre line that denotes datum for score line - in the middle of the vertical height of the card. An immutable histogram of the previous analysis 'score' flows through the columns that each card sits in. A new contemporary histogram showing trendline through the centre of each card on its datum. When a card is moved the histogram moves too
• Magnetic snap points at score intervals for tactile feedback
• Card flip animation to reveal principle details/descriptions

2. Progress Visualisation Concepts

• Dual histogram: ghosted previous scores vs. current bright colours
• Histogram showing trendline through the centre of each card on its datum
• Timeline slider to scrub through historical assessments
• Heat map showing principle attention over time periods

Gamification Ideas

3. Engagement Mechanics

• "Principle Steward" badges for sustained high scores in specific principles
• Streak counters for regular assessment completion
• "Balanced Designer" achievements for even principle distribution
• Progress milestones with nature-themed rewards (seed→sprout→tree)

4. Community Features

• Anonymous regional benchmarking ("Your bioregion averages...")
• Collaborative group assessments for shared projects
• Principle spotlight: monthly community focus on specific principles
• Peer comparison opt-in with privacy controls

Technical Architecture Ideas

5. Data Management Solutions

• Offline-first PWA with sync when online
• Export functionality (PDF reports, CSV data)
• Import capability for existing assessment data
• Backup/restore through QR codes for easy device transfer

6. Adaptive Interface Concepts

• Mobile: vertical card stack with swipe gestures
• Desktop: horizontal spread with mouse drag
• Tablet: hybrid approach with touch-optimised interactions
• Accessibility: keyboard navigation and screen reader support
  
  
  

Cedronella canariensis (Canary Balm)

 

Cedronella canariensis. Complete Growing and Care Guide

Scientific Name Breakdown:

• Cedronella - From Greek "kedron" (cedar) + diminutive "-ella" = "little cedar-like plant"
• canariensis - "from the Canary Islands" or "of the Canaries"

Common Names:

• Cedronella, Canary Islands-balm, Canary balm, and Balm-of-Gilead

Plant Description:

Cedronella canariensis is an aromatic perennial herb in the mint family (Lamiaceae). Endemic to the Canary Islands, it grows naturally in laurel forests and pine woodlands at higher elevations, particularly on Tenerife, La Palma, and Gran Canaria.

Physical Characteristics:

• Subshrub growing 1-2 metres in height
• Opposite, serrated leaves that are highly aromatic when crushed
• Complex scent: mixture of cedar, lemon, and camphor
• Small white or pale pink flowers in terminal spikes
• Evergreen in suitable climates

Growing Requirements

Climate:

• Subtropical climate with mild temperatures year-round
• Optimal temperature range: 15-25°C
• Can tolerate brief periods down to 5°C but is frost-sensitive
• Prefers high humidity, especially atmospheric moisture

Natural Habitat:

• Elevations between 400-1,500 metres
• Cloud forest zones with regular mist and fog
• Benefits from morning dew and atmospheric moisture

Light Conditions:

• Partial shade to filtered sunlight
• Can handle some direct sun but prefers protection during hottest parts of the day
• In nature, grows under laurel forest canopy

Soil Requirements:

• Well-draining, fertile soil
• Slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0-7.0)
• Rich in organic matter
• Essential: good drainage - cannot tolerate waterlogged conditions

Watering:

• Consistent moisture but not waterlogged
• Regular watering during growing season
• Can tolerate some drought once established
• High atmospheric humidity more important than soil moisture

Suitable Locations:

• Temperate coastal regions with mild winters
• Greenhouse cultivation in cooler climates
• Container growing with winter protection in cold areas

Propagation Methods

1. Division (Easiest Method)

• Best done in spring when new growth begins
• Carefully dig up part of plant with roots attached
• Divide into sections ensuring each has roots and shoots
• Larger divisions can go straight into garden
• Smaller sections should be potted up first

2. Basal Cuttings (Very Effective)

• Take in late spring or early summer
• Select young shoots 10-15cm long from the base
• Include some underground stem/root section
• Pot individually and keep in light shade until well-rooted

3. Stem Cuttings

• Take 10-15cm cuttings from healthy stems
• Remove lower leaves
• Use well-draining potting mix
• Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged
• Place in bright, indirect light

Optimal Timing: Late spring extending into summer for most propagation methods.

Maintenance & Care

Pruning & Deadheading:

• Prune in late winter or early spring
• Remove dead or damaged stems
• Shape the plant by cutting back about one-third
• Regular deadheading of spent flowers encourages continued blooming
• Use clean, sharp pruning shears
• Avoid excessive pruning to prevent stress

Fertilising:

• Light feeding with diluted ~1:10 worm leachate applied every 2-4 weeks during the growing season (spring to autumn)
• Annual application of organic compost or well-rotted manure in spring
• Avoid over fertilising as this can reduce aromatic oils

Seasonal Care:

• Spring: Major pruning, fertilising, propagation
• Summer: Regular watering and deadheading
• Autumn: Reduce watering, collect seeds if desired
• Winter: Minimal maintenance, frost protection if necessary

Mulching: Apply around base to retain moisture and suppress weeds

Pest Management & IPM Uses

Natural Pest Control Properties:

• Strong aromatic foliage repels mosquitoes in garden and house
• Fresh foliage can be placed in chicken nesting houses to repel mites
• Strong balsam, lemon and camphor-like odour deters various insects

Practical Applications:

• Companion planting near outdoor seating areas
• Border plantings around vegetable gardens
• Crush fresh leaves for natural mosquito repellent
• Use fresh cuttings in poultry housing
• Hang dried foliage bundles as natural deterrent
• Fresh sprigs indoors help deter flying insects

Traditional Uses:

• Used by indigenous Guanche people and in Canarian folk medicine
• Respiratory ailments and digestive issues
• General tonic properties
• Leaves dried for herbal teas
• Ornamental and aromatic garden plant

Potential Issues:

• Generally hardy once established
• Can be container-grown and moved to protection in colder weather
• Main challenge: replicating high humidity of native cloud forest environment

Growing in Coastal areas:

Coastal locations often provide ideal conditions due to:

• Stable, moderate temperatures
• Higher atmospheric humidity from ocean proximity
• Natural moisture from sea breezes and morning dew
• Protection from extreme temperature fluctuations

This post is to ensure I do not loose or forget my own designs. This design created with assistance from Claude

Air Layering Black Boy Peach (The Rooting Process and the Removal & Potting)

Part 1: Air Layering Black Boy Peach (The Rooting Process)

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START

1. Check Timing (Ecological Indicators):

The observable ecological indicators (visible growth conditions) allow the identify of the prime window (optimal active growth phase - actively photosynthesising and storing carbohydrates) for air layering based directly on what the tree is doing, rather than relying on a fixed calendar date that will shift with climate perturbation. All indicators should be present for air layering to proceed.

These ecological indicators typically align with Late Spring to Early Summer in New Zealand (October - December)

1.    Has the peach tree completed its primary spring leaf expansion (when the buds have opened and the initial flush of leaves have grown to their full, mature size, covering the branches to form a full canopy) and is it actively producing significant new shoot growth (vegetative growth/shoot elongation) for the current season

2.    Are the current season's new shoots beginning to firm up (semi-hardwood/lignification), yet still flexible? This means they're no longer purely soft and easily damaged, but not yet woody and hard 

3.    Are small fruits typically visible and beginning to swell (fruit development/fruit set) on the branches? This indicates the tree has moved past its main flowering phase and is actively putting energy into fruit development and vegetative growth

YES to all three indicators: Move to Step 2

NO to any of the indicators: STOP. Wait until these visible growth conditions are met for optimal active growth

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STEP 2. 

Pre-Task: Prepare Your Materials for Layering

Tools and Equipment Required:

• Sharp, clean knife or ring barking scissors
• Rooting hormone (powder, gel, or liquid). Follow product instructions
• Black root layering cups (appropriate size) 
• Washed (Good quality, low EC) coir fibre
• Rainwater (for rinsing coir and hydrating coir)
• Syringe/squirt bottle (for re-moistening layering cup)
• Zip ties or similar (to hold cups together)
• Grafting tape/plastic wrap (seal balls to reduce evaporation) 

Prepare Coir Fibre Medium:

• Use good quality, low EC (washed) coir fibre (reduced salinity/optimal electrical conductivity). If the provenance or state of your coir is unknown, thoroughly and repeatedly rinse it with clean water (leaching/desalination) to remove excess salts before proceeding

•  Hydrate the coir thoroughly until it's fully expanded and uniformly moist (optimal water holding capacity/hydration)

• Squeeze out all excess water; the medium should be damp, like a well-wrung sponge (achieve ideal air-to-water ratio/field capacity)

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Main Task: Air Layering Procedure

1. Select Your Branch:

• Choose a branch that matches the ecological indicators that is also: 

•     One to two years old
•     Approximately 0.7 cm to 2.5 cm in diameter (optimal for callus and root initiation)
•     Located in a mid-section where you want your new plant to form
•     Completely free from any disease or damage

2. Prepare the Stem (Ring Barking):

• Use a sharp knife or ring barking scissors
• Make two parallel cuts completely around the stem (girdling), about 1 to 2 cm apart encircling the branch circumference
• Carefully peel off the ring of bark (phloem removal) between these two cuts
• Thoroughly scrape off the green cambium layer (cambium disruption/root initiation zone) from the exposed woody cylinder. This is crucial for rooting

3. Apply Rooting Hormone:

• Apply rooting hormone to the exposed girdle (focus on the top edge of the girdle) using a powder, gel, or liquid (auxins) suitable for semi-hardwood or hardwood

4. Attach Black Root Ball Cup:

• Open the layering cup 
• Fill both halves of the cup with the prepared, moist coir fibre
• Carefully place the filled halves around the girdle, ensuring the entire girdle is centrally positioned and completely encased by the coir (maintaining humidity/contact with rooting medium)
• Securely close the cup using its clips, latches, and zip ties

5. Monitor (Long Term):

• Be patient. Root development (rhizogenesis) for peaches can take 3 to 6 months or even longer
• Periodically check moisture (hydration management):
  • Is the coir drying out?

YES: Add a small amount of water via a syringe or squirt bottle through the cup's opening

NO: Continue monitoring

6. Check for Root Development:

• After a significant period (e.g., 3-6 months+), carefully open one side of the cup to inspect for root formation
• Are white, healthy roots filling a good portion of the cup (successful rhizogenesis/vascular connection)?

YES: Proceed to the "Establishing Your Air-Layered Peach" instructions
NO: Gently re-close the cup, ensure moisture, and return to Step 7

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Part 2: Establishing Your Air-Layered Peach (Removal & Potting)

Post-Rooting Care

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START

Pre-Task: Gather Potting Materials

Tools and Equipment Required:

• Sharp, clean secateurs
• Plant pot (20-30 cm diameter)
• Good quality potting mix (suitable growing substrate)
• Support stake or bamboo cane
• Source of clean water (for initial hydration/settling of potted plant)

1. Sever the New Plant:

• Using sharp, clean secateurs, cut the branch just below the root ball (separation from parent plant/independence)

2. Potting:

• Carefully open the layering cup and remove the rooted branch with its intact root ball
• Immediately plant it into a 20-30 cm pot filled with a good quality potting mix
• Provide immediate support (e.g., a stake or bamboo cane) to the newly potted plant.  The newly formed root system is often not robust enough to support the full weight of the upper stem, especially if it's a larger air layer, preventing damage from wind or movement
• Water thoroughly (initial hydration/settling)

3. Hardening Off (acclimatisation):

• Place the newly potted plant in a sheltered, semi-shaded location (reduced environmental stress) for several weeks
• Gradually introduce it to more sunlight (gradual light acclimation) over time

4. Ongoing Care:

• Continue with regular watering and general care (post-transplant management) until the plant is well-established and showing robust new growth (successful establishment/vegetative vigour)

5. Planting out:

To be continued.

END

This post is to ensure I do not loose or forget my own designs. This design created with assistance from Chaptgpt, Gemini and Claude. Flowchart created using Chatgpt Lucidchart plug in.

According to Claude: 

This is an excellent and comprehensive air layering guide. Here's my review:

Strengths:

Scientific Accuracy: The technical terminology and biological explanations are spot-on. The use of terms like "rhizogenesis," "cambium disruption," and "lignification" shows solid horticultural knowledge, while the parenthetical explanations make it accessible to beginners.

Ecological Approach: The timing section is particularly impressive. Using observable indicators rather than fixed calendar dates is much more reliable and demonstrates sophisticated understanding of plant physiology. The three-point checklist (leaf expansion, shoot firmness, fruit development) is practical and scientifically sound.

Methodical Structure: The step-by-step format with clear decision points (YES/NO checkpoints) makes it foolproof to follow. The pre-task material preparation shows good planning emphasis.

Technical Detail: Excellent specifics like branch diameter (0.7-2.5cm), timing expectations (3-6 months), and pot sizing (20-30cm) give readers realistic expectations.

Areas for Enhancement:

Seasonal Context: While you mention "Late Spring to Early Summer in New Zealand (October-December)," adding a note about Southern Hemisphere timing for international readers could be helpful.

Troubleshooting: Consider adding a brief section on common problems (rot, poor root development, drying out) and solutions.

Success Indicators: The root development check could be more specific - what constitutes "healthy roots filling a good portion of the cup"? Maybe mention root color, length, or density.

Post-Care Timeline: The "hardening off" section could specify duration (e.g., "2-3 weeks in semi-shade").

Overall Assessment: This is professional-quality content that balances scientific rigor with practical application. The ecological timing approach sets it apart from typical gardening guides. Well done!